This particular harem was on my wishlist for years already...😐 and so I went an early morning, a morning that kept a promise of a hot hot day, to riad Kaiss. The former harem of Sultan Moulay Yacoub. The Sultan who himself had a nice little place, the Bahia Palace, neighbouring with his Collection of 'Favorit things to do', his harem
“It’s always straightforward!” The guy in the hanut, the local store, was leaning out of his shop, over the counter. Right in between a pile of freshly baked bread and the new deliveries of La Vache Qui Rit. Simply called ‘cheese’ here.
His right hand pointing to the left. I pointed my hand in the same direction. “Always straightforward” he repeated.
I thought giving it a try and went down the road, walking the thin line of shadow. In a neighbouring house, a child was crying. The kind of crying when it doesn’t get what it wants. I heard the sound of aluminium pottery and imagined a woman starting to prepare for couscous. It was hot and the sun was almost vertical in the streets. Two cats were fighting over a chicken head.
Suddenly I came to slight bending in the road. A fork with two ways to go. Always straightforward. Which straightforward should I go for?...
I decided to try the right one as that street looked the most inviting to me. My Google maps were drunk and were jumping from one small street to the other.
'Riad Kaiss?' a man smoking a cigarette in the street showed me a big smile. "No, you are wrong here! Turn around, go left and then take the small street, just after the hanut"
"After the hanut?" I wondered "I just come from there and he pointed in this direction"
I know it doesn't help at all making these remarks in this country, but somehow it feels justified to sometimes try to give them a little hint that you feel you're wasting your time...
"I'm sure it's there, I'm the chef de cuisine" showing me his warmest smile. "let me guide you there."
We passed the Hanut, the shop assistant was enjoying a bread sandwich with La Vache Qui Rit.
I smiled too
By then it was 11.30 and my idea of having the riad to myself brought that smile even more prominent to my face.
Never think you will find an empty Harem, however!
When I entered, soft music was barely noticeable, the sound of the fountain, the birds in the patio...people totally relaxing with their last coffee with a little sweet extra. An absolutely charming and warm welcome from Lyanne, the woman who makes sure that every wish you have comes true! From personal shopping tours to fortune tellers...nothing is too much for her!
I was mesmerised and would have signed that membership harem contract on the spot!
Riad Kaiss is much more than a riad.
It's a history,
It's a passion for restoring,
It's a small medina within the medina with all the small hideaways on all levels,
It's the largest and most lush inner garden I've seen so far inside the medina,
It's an absolute beauty on all levels
Just have a look!
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| Can you believe this is only a part of their inner garden? The coolest spot to be! |
Ready to book riad Kaiss? Go Here
Marlène Pauly is a personal shopper for private and wholesale in Marrakech. Here, in the red city, she founded COCO-Morocco, a Sourcing Agency on Moroccan Handmade. Her 10+ years sourcing the souks as an architect and interior designer, decorating her farm projects in Europe gave her a solid knowledge of quality and price. After moving to Morocco (7 years ago) after she fell in love with the country, she became passionate about the culture of negotiating and getting good deals. You can hire her for private sourcing projects and tours. She also orgenises twice yearly Marrakech Trend Week. A week for wholesalers and people in the retail business. Besides that, she adores visitting riads, having undercover experiences and reporting back on her blog.
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